NYFW Fall 2016 Catwalk Diversity Spotlight: Zac Posen

Runway diversity for fashion week–any year, any city, any season–is a notorious problem in the fashion industry. Thin, white models reign supreme, with little signs of change. The Fall 2016 collections, however, have had a few head-turning collections where diverse casting was clearly taken into careful consideration. Well done and three cheers for these New York-based designers!

Previously: Sophie Theallet, Chromat

ZAC POSEN

The Closet Feminist has been a longtime admirer of Zac Posen‘s dedicated efforts to being an ally in the fashion world.

Being an ally is a key word here. For example, in this mini-series we have noted to female designers Sophie Theallet and Chromat have also cast incredibly diverse shows this season. Yet, for some reason, Posen is the one who keeps on getting all the press for his efforts. It would have been cool if Posen could have taken his status as an ally a step further by recognizing Theallet and Chromat’s efforts alongside his own.

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It just goes to show that while fashion claims to be about and for women, men still seem to get most of the credit in this industry. People fall all over Karl Lagerfeld, and barely a whisper is heard about Sarah Burton, suggesting women designers have to work twice, four times as hard to get a fraction of the credit and press. This bias is one of the reasons why here at The Closet Feminist, about ninety percent our columns and articles focus on the work of female designers only.

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Of course, it is excellent that Posen cast predominantly black models for his Fall 2016 show. He still played it relatively safe though–both the Sophie Theallet and Chromat show took things a step further by casting ‘plus’ models as well.

Still, a job well done to Posen. His shows are always relatively more diverse than his peers, here’s hoping he continues to push catwalk diversity for many years to come.

All photos above from Vogue Runway here.

 

NYFW Fall 2016 Catwalk Diversity Spotlight: Chromat

Runway diversity for fashion week–any year, any city, any season–is a notorious problem in the fashion industry. Thin, white models reign supreme, with little signs of change. The Fall 2016 collections, however, have had a few head-turning collections where diverse casting was clearly taken into careful consideration. Well done and three cheers for these New York-based designers!

Previously: Sophie Theallet

CHROMAT

Vogue Runway reviewer Steff Yotka said it best:

Chromat’s Becca McCharen doesn’t make excuses. Where other designers have dragged their feet to embrace technology, feature plus-size models, and champion diversity of race and gender, McCharen has pounced, springing leaps and bounds ahead of some of her contemporaries.

Steff Yotka here

Seriously though–McCharen’s designs are very swimwear and lingerie-based. Unlike,say, the Victoria’s Secret fashion show, McCharen has no problem whatsoever showing diverse women in skimpy designs. There are models of all skin tones, sizes, and perceived abilities.

Also, let’s be honest–these designs are good. They’re bright, modern, sexy, and the diverse cast just sweetens the deal.

Above: I love these thigh-highs–bright toe and thigh area, then the rest is just sheer. Such a fun detail.

Above: The sporty design mixed with the bustier details and satin is so fresh

Above and below: So many designers tried to bring back satin bias cut-dresses, and I for one find this returning trend premature. The Chromat take on satin dresses, however, is head-turning and noteworthy.

Below: I really hope someone wears this look the Met Gala this year given the theme is “fashion in the age of technology”.

All images from Vogue Runway here.

#SLAY Vivienne Westwood Red Label Fall 2016

This model…this pink dress…just totally…can’tevensoperfectomgomgomg.

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Above: Vivienne Westwood Red Label Fall 2016

#SLAY #SLAY #SLAY #SLAY #SLAY

NYFW Fall 2016 Catwalk Diversity Spotlight: Sophie Theallet

Runway diversity for fashion week–any year, any city, any season–is a notorious problem in the fashion industry. Thin, white models reign supreme, with little signs of change. The Fall 2016 collections, however, have had a few head-turning collections where diverse casting was clearly taken into careful consideration. Well done and three cheers for these New York-based designers!

SOPHIE THEALLET

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Omg this show was like a dream come true—a very racially diverse cast of models, ‘plus’ size models…very, very exciting. There were models with natural hair, all skin tones, and you definitely couldn’t consider any of these models’ presence on the runway to be token. Sophie Theallet, you’re officially a Closet Feminist dream girl now.

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Above and below: Love these Brontë heroine-worthy looks

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Also a total bonus–Theallet opened and closed her show with a woman of colour!

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All images from Vogue Runway here.

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Bibliostyle: “White Is For Witching” by Helen Oyeyemi

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Above: Alexander McQueen Resort 2016

Miri was like a mini-Sylvie, but she hadn’t always been. I can’t remember when she stopped wearing jeans and jumpers and skirts and started with the black and the severe outlines (why did she start?) but I do remember Lily finding the change hilarious for months, and I also remember being embarrassed to have to be seen outdoors with Miri until I realised that no one seemed to think her dress sense was odd. Aside from infrequent comments (“Cheer up, love,” or “It’s not Hallo’ween”), no one wondered why a teenager was dressed up as a chic governess. Sylvie approved of Miri, even at the same time as she was confused by her. “It’s style at least,” she said, and took off her rope of pearls and looped them around Miri’s neck. “Perhaps when you are my age you will have to turn to short skirts and mini-dresses, just for something different.” [….]

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Above: Vanessa Seward Fall 2016

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Above: Rachel Zoe Pre-Fall 2016

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Above: Lisa Perry Pre-Fall 2016 

I kept wanting to ask her if [Ore] was cold. I kept wanting to run a finger along the seam of those stockings. I caught Miri catching me looking at Ore, and decided to dub our visitor Lind in the hope that I could inspire gentlemanly feeling in myself. Still, she must have had a reason for wearing stockings and a short dress in winter. Girls who dress for themselves dress like Miri.

– from White Is For Witching by Helen Oyeyemi

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Above: See by Chloé Resort 2016

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Above: Vionnet Resort 2016

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Above: Paul & Joe Fall 2015

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Above: Alberta Ferretti Pre-Fall 2016

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