Covers & Content Annual Review 2016, Part 1: Elle Canada

The 2016 publishing year is over for our three favourite Canadian fashion magazines, so it’s time to look back on every issue printed this year by Elle Canada, Fashion, and Flare, to see how diverse they were overall compared to last year. Up first is Elle Canada!

For a review of the Covers & Content project, please check out the FAQ page here.

Closet Feminist Terminology

Whiteout Issue: an issue of a fashion magazine where neither the cover star nor models booked/used for any of the major editorials are people of colour.

Token Diversity Spread: When a fashion magazine books/uses an ensemble of models, including some models of colour or models representing other minorities in the fashion world (i.e., plus size models or visibly older models), but are careful not to allow the minorities chosen to make up the majority of the spread or the majority of models chosen.

Has Elle Canada improved at all? Check out our data from the last three years.

Elle Canada 2013 Annual Review

Elle Canada 2014 Annual Review

Elle Canada 2015 Annual Review

***

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Elle Canada has made some steady improvements since last year. In 2016, they had four cover stars of colour–last year, they had none. Diversity within the pages has also improved. This year, Elle Canada had four Whiteout Issues, and last year, they had five.

Another big win for this magazine–this year, Elle Canada was the only magazine of the three studied here to do a fashion editorial featuring a plus size model. That would be their October issue starring Ashley Graham.

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And now the month-by-month breakdown.

JANUARY

The one and only fashion editorial in this month’s issue starred cover star Kate Bock, a thin, white model, which means that this month was a Whiteout Issue.

FEBRUARY

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Rita Ora was on the cover. There was one fashion editorial this month and it starred mixed-race model Mackenzie Hamilton.

MARCH 

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There were three cover stars for this issue: Lilly Singh, Ebony Oshunrinde (Wondagirl), and Maria Qamar.

Despite the diversity of the cover, there were two fashion editorials this month, and both starred thin, white models.

APRIL

The April issue of Elle Canda was a Whiteout Issue. Iggy Azalea was on the cover. There were two fashion editorials this month, both starring one thin, white model each.

MAY

Beyoncé was on the cover.

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There were two fashion editorials in this issue. The first starred two thin, white models. The second starred one thin, white model.

JUNE

Elizabeth Olsen was on the cover.

There were two fashion editorials in this issue. The first starred on thin model of colour. The second editorial was a particularly offensive editorial starring one thin, white model.

JULY

Amanda Seyfried was on the cover.

There were two fashion editorials in this issue. the first starred one thin, white model. The second starred a thin model of colour.

AUGUST

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Charlize Theron was on the cover.

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There was one fashion editorial, starring an ensemble of five models. Two of the models were women of colour.

SEPTEMBER

Demi Lovato was on the cover.

There are two fashion editorials in this issue. Both star thin, white models.

OCTOBER

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Ashley Graham was on the cover.

There were two fashion editorials in this issue. One starred a thin, white model, and the other starred one thin, Latina model.

NOVEMBER 

Dakota Fanning was on the cover.

The November 2016 issue was a Whiteout Issue, as there were two fashion editorials in this issue, both starring thin, white models.

DECEMBER

Miranda Kerr was on the cover.

There were two fashion editorials this month. One starred one thin, Latina model. The other starred one thin, white model

UPDATED: I Read 50 Books by Women in 2016.

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In 2016 I read fifty books total, forty-eight fifty-two books total, fifty of them are by women. I have highlighted my favourites below.

  1. Call the Midwife: Shadows of the Workhouse by Jennifer Worth
  2. The Long-Winded Lady: Notes from The New Yorker by Maeve Brennan
  3. Gutshot: Stories by Amelia Gray
  4. Listen to the Squawking Chicken: A Memoir (sort of) by Elaine Lui
  5. Slouching Towards Bethlehem: Essays by Joan Didion
  6. Call the Midwife: Farewell to the East End by Jennifer Worth
  7. The Melancholy of Mechagirl by Catherynne M. Valente 
  8. White is for Witching by Helen Oyeyemi
  9. Hyperbole and a Half by Allie Brosch
  10. Hausfrau by Jill Alexander Essbaum
  11. The Secret History by Donna Tartt
  12. Speed Dreaming: Stories by Nicole Haroutunian
  13. An Unofficial Rose by Iris Murdoch
  14. The Color Master by Aimee Bender
  15. Tempting the Gods: The Selected Stories of Tanith Lee, Volume One by Tanith Lee
  16. My Ántonia by Willa Cather
  17. Year of Yes by Shonda Rhimes
  18. Middlemarch by George Eliot
  19. The Pursuit of Love by Nancy Mitford
  20. Love in a Cold Climate by Nancy Mitford
  21. The Birthgrave by Tanith Lee
  22. Dancing Girls: Stories by Margaret Atwood
  23. Radiance by Catherynne M. Valente 
  24. Swamplandia! by Karen Russell
  25. Don’t Lose Track Vol. 1: 40 selected Articles, Essays, and Q&As by Jordannah Elizabeth
  26. All over Creation by Ruth Ozeki
  27. Hunger Makes Me a Modern Girl by Carrie Brownstein
  28. Pink Noises: women on electronic music and sound by Tara Rodgers
  29. The Icarus Girl by Helen Oyeyemi
  30. Milk & Honey by Rupi Kaur
  31. Fierce Conversations by Susan Scott
  32. Flight from the Enchanter by Iris Murdoch
  33. Letters Home: Correspondence 1950-1963 by Sylvia Plath
  34. Deathless by Catherynne M. Valente
  35. Kushiel’s Mercy by Jacqueline Carey
  36. My Life on the Road by Gloria Steinem
  37. The Brothers Karamazov by Fyodor Dostoevsky
  38. The Electrical Field by Kerri Sakamoto
  39. Anne of Windy Poplars by L.M. Montgomery
  40. Anne’s House of Dreams by L.M. Montgomery
  41. The Tenant of Wildfell Hall by Anne Brontë
  42. Waiting by Ha Jin
  43. What Is Not Yours Is Not Yours: Stories by Helen Oyeyemi
  44. My Year of Meats by Ruth L. Ozeki
  45. Birds of a Lesser Paradise by Megan Mayhew Bergman
  46. The Dead Ladies Project: Exiles, Expats & Ex-Countries by Jessa Crispin
  47. Agnes Grey by Anne Brontë
  48. Space Is Just A Starry Night: Short Fiction by Tanith Lee
  49. The Mistletoe Murder and Other Stories by P.D. James
  50. Shrill: Notes from a Loud Woman by Lindy West
  51. In the Country we Love by Diane Guerrero
  52. One of Ours by Willa Cather

Here are some tidbits about the books above.

mitford

The Mitford novels were hilarious and I want to read more of her work. Elaine Lui’s memoir had me in stitches also.

Helen Oyeyemi continues to be one of my favourite authors, What Is Not Yours Is Not Yours and White is for Witching were amazing.

oyeyemi

For these troubling times, I would strongly recommend reading Gloria Steinem’s My Life on the Road and anything my Ruth Ozeki. Ozeki’s books are about ordinary women who end up doing amazing activism in page-turning, addictive stories full of compelling characters. Steinem’s book is inspiring and very much focuses on the positivity of humanity in a way that inspires hope,

I’m pretty sure my wedding vows will be one of Rupi Kaur’s poems in Milk & Honey.

I read some awesome books about women and music this year, but my favourite was Don’t Lose Track Vol. 1: 40 selected Articles, Essays, and Q&As by Jordannah Elizabeth

I’m not one for reading mystery/thriller books that contain murder, but the P.D. James short stories and Donna Tartt’s The Secret History were awesome! It’s fun to read something different.

I keep thinking about Valente’s Radiance. I think it’s because I’m re-watching Battlestar Galactica right now.

The Closet Feminist is big on #ReadWomen. Check out more awesome books here:

My 2014 reading list

My 2015 reading list 

Covers & Content: December 2016

As we close out the publishing year for 2016, how did our top three Canadian fashion magazines fare in terms of diversity this month? Also of note: it is Flare magazine’s last print issue–ever. Thank-you to the Flare team for your hard work, inspiring content, and keeping Canadian fashion relevant.

 

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The Magazine: Elle Canada

The Cover Star: Miranda Kerr

Perceived Appearance of Cover Star: White

Does the magazine appear to feature any models of colour in the editorials?: There were two fashion editorial this month. One starred one thin, Latina model. The other starred one thin, white model

Does the magazine appear to feature any plus-size models in the editorials?: No.

 

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The Magazine: FASHION

The Cover Star: Hailee Steinfeld

Perceived Appearance of Cover Star: Mixed race

Does the magazine appear to feature any models of colour in the editorials?: There were  two fashion editorials in this issue. One starred a thin, white model, and the second one starred one thin Latina/mixed race model.

Does the magazine appear to feature any plus-size models in the editorials?: No.

 

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The Magazine: Flare

The Cover Star: Anna Kendrick

Perceived Appearance of Cover Star: White

Does the magazine appear to feature any models of colour in the editorials?: There was one fashion editorial this month, starring one thin, Latina model.

Does the magazine appear to feature any plus-size models in the editorials?: No.

 

Bibliostyle: Green Ball Gowns in Catherynne M. Valente’s ‘Radiance’

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Above: Pamella Roland Spring 2016

Our yuletide green had been knitted out of jute and wire and shredded dresses by the Udolpho triplets, those wanton Martian contortionists and-as I had discovered- wanted counterfeiters., from Guan Yu. Each of the nine women aboard had donated a green gown to the effort. We whirled away under Cythera’s lime spangled flapper-fringes, Harper Ibbott’s hunting cloak, every girl’s bright emerald and olive hoopskirts cut and ruched into garlands. We were a strange lot, the Obolus cargo, some famous, most not, all vibrating with the things we did not tell each other.

  • from Radiance by Catherynne M. Valente

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Above: Sally LaPointe Pre-Fall 2016

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Above: Pamella Roland Fall 2016

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Above: Jenny Packham Fall 2016

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Above: Toga Fall 2016

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Above: Monique Lhuillier Fall 2016

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Above: Hellessy Fall 2016

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Above: Jenny Packham Spring 2016

Covers & Content: November 2016

How did the November 2016 issues of major Canadian fashion magazines stack up this month in terms of diversity? Read on to find out.

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The Magazine: FASHION

The Cover Star: Tatiana Maslany

Perceived Appearance of Cover Star: White

Does the magazine appear to feature any models of colour in the editorials?: Yes. There were two fashion editorials in this issue. One starred one thin, white model. The second starred one thin model of colour.

Does the magazine appear to feature any plus-size models in the editorials?: No.

 

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The Magazine: Flare

The Cover Star: Mandy Moore

Perceived Appearance of Cover Star: White

Does the magazine appear to feature any models of colour in the editorials?: Yes. There was one fashion editorial in this issue, starring one thin model of colour.

Does the magazine appear to feature any plus-size models in the editorials?: No.

 

this-cover-elle-canada-november-2016-dakota-fanning-nowa-beauty

The Magazine: Elle Canada

The Cover Star: Dakota Fanning

Perceived Appearance of Cover Star: White

Does the magazine appear to feature any models of colour in the editorials?: There were two fashion editorials in this issue, both starring thin, white models.

Does the magazine appear to feature any plus-size models in the editorials?: No.

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