Covers & Content Annual Review 2016, Part 3: Flare

The 2016 publishing year is over for our three favourite Canadian fashion magazines, so it’s time to look back on every issue printed this year by Elle Canada, Fashion, and Flare, to see how diverse they were overall compared to last year. Up next is FASHION!

For a review of the Covers & Content project, please check out the FAQ page here.

Closet Feminist Terminology

Whiteout Issue: an issue of a fashion magazine where neither the cover star nor models booked/used for any of the major editorials are people of colour.

Token Diversity Spread: When a fashion magazine books/uses an ensemble of models, including some models of colour or models representing other minorities in the fashion world (i.e., plus size models or visibly older models), but are careful not to allow the minorities chosen to make up the majority of the spread or the majority of models chosen.

Has FASHION improved at all over the years? Check out our data from the last three years.

FASHION 2013 Annual Review

FASHION 2014 Annual Review

FASHION 2015 Annual Review

Did you miss Part 1 of our 2016 review focused on Elle Canada? Check it out here.

Part 2 of our 2016 review focused on FASHION can be found here.

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This review is bittersweet, because as of January, 2017, FLARE will no longer be doing print issues. Flare was not perfect, but it’s reporting was timely and interesting. We will truly miss this Canadian fashion magazine.

That being said, did this glossy go out with a bang or a whimper? Read on to find out.

JANUARY

The January 2016 issue of Flare was technically its Winter 2015 issue, covering December 2015 as well.

Grimes was on the cover. There was one fashion editorial in this issue featuring one thin, white model, making this issue of Flare a Whiteout Issue.

FEBRUARY

Ilana and Abbi of Broad City were on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial in this issue featuring one thin, white model, making this issue of Flare a Whiteout Issue as well.

MARCH

Rebel Wilson was on the cover.

For a third month in a row, Flare put out a Whiteout Issue–the one fashion editorial this month featured one thin, white model.

APRIL

The April cover of Flare featured Ania Boniecka, Sonya Esman, Alanna Durkovich, Kayla Seah, and Dajana Rads. It bears noting that the cover was really more of a tedious Joe Fresh advertorial.

There was one fashion editorial in the April issue, starring one thin, white model.

MAY

Shay Mitchell was on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial this month starring one thin, white model.

JUNE/JULY

The Summer issue of Flare featured Ellie Goulding on the cover.

There were two fashion editorials in this issue. The first starred a thin, mixed-race model, the second starred Caitriona Balfe who is thin and white.

AUGUST

Herieth Paul was on the cover.

Above: Herieth Paul in Flare’s August issue.

There were two fashion editorials, counting Paul’s cover story. The second editorial starred one thin, white model.

SEPTEMBER

Priyanka Chopra was on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial in this issue, starring one thin, white model.

OCTOBER

Bella Hadid was on the cover.

Above: From the second fashion editorial in Flare October 2016

There were two editorials in this issue including Hadid’s cover story. The second editorial featured three thin models, two of them were women of colour.

NOVEMBER

Mandy Moore was on the cover.

Above: Evy Jane stars in the one fashion editorial in Flare November 2016

There was one fashion editorial in this month’s issue, starring one thin model of colour.

DECEMBER

Aww, Flare’s last print issue 🙁

Anna Kendrick was on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial in this month’s issue, starring one thin model of colour.

Random Style Inspiration: Imogen Poots in Flare March 2014

I was going through my stack of old Flare magazines, and paused when I saw the Imogen Poots cover story for their March 2014 story. I loved the dress she is wearing on the cover (so fresh! so fun! so perfectly on-trend still even for a two-year-old magazine), and flipped to the interview.

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Styled by Tiyana Grulovic and shot by Jason Kim, the whole shoot was totally inspired. I would wear every look still, and wish I had all the clothes in my closet.

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I loved the colour, the prints, the white shoes that worked with everything, and the sharp accessories.

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It’s exactly the look I want for spring/summer: polished but not stuffy, bright but not obnoxious, ladylike but cheeky. I just had to share it all here for some quick style inspiration–well done, Flare!

Covers & Content Annual Review 2015, Part 3: Flare

2015 is over and done with, so it’s time to look back on every issue printed this year by Canada’s three top fashion magazines: Elle Canada, Fashion, and Flare, to see how diverse they were overall and compared to last year. Our last magazine up for scrutiny is Flare!

See Part 1 of our annual review on Elle Canada here.

See Part 2 of our annual review on FASHION here.

For a review of the Covers & Content project by The Closet Feminist, please check out the FAQ page here.

Closet Feminist Terminology

Whiteout Issue: an issue of a fashion magazine where neither the cover star nor models booked/used for any of the major editorials are people of colour.

Token Diversity Spread: When a fashion magazine books/uses an ensemble of models, including some models of colour or models representing other minorities in the fashion world (i.e., plus size models or visibly older models), but are careful not to allow the minorities chosen to make up the majority of the spread or the majority of models chosen

***

IMG_3253

2015 was not a good year for diversity in Flare. They managed to do the same amount of Whiteout Issues as they did last year (5), meaning that they are the only magazine of the three examined here not to improve their Whiteout Issue count.

Flare_Covers&COntent_TABLE_2015

Flare tied with Elle Canada for most cover stars of colour–5 each. However, it should be noted that the March cover of Flare featured an ensemble of five models, but only one of the models was a woman of colour, essentially making their cover a Token Diversity Spread.

And now we go month-by-month…

JANUARY

Gillian Jacobs was on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial but it didn’t have any models (was just a accessories feature). Though there were no models in the editorial, I still count this as a Whiteout Issue since the focus of the major features was still on people who enjoy white privilege.

FEBRUARY

Olivia Palermo and her husband were on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial in the February issue of Flare, but it starred one thin, white model, making this issue a Whiteout Issue.

MARCH

Flare2015_cover

There were five women on the cover, models Jenna Lenfesty-Castilloux, Sophie Touchet, Shelby Furber, Charlotte Mingay, and Sasha Hronis. This is the cover equivalent of a Token Diversity Spread. The worst part is, is that in the article that the models were featured in, there were actually seven models total, including the five that were on the cover. There was one other model of colour besides Hronis–Ashley Foo. She and white model Nadiya Svirsky were not chosen for the cover. This is a crying shame as if Foo had been on the cover with Hronis, Flare’s efforts wouldn’t have been so transparently token.

There were two editorials in the March issue of Flare, not counting the cover story. Both featured a thin, white model each.

APRIL

Tatiana Maslany was on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial in the April issue. Rather repeating the sins of the March issue, it was a Token Diversity Spread as there were five models booked, but only one of them was a woman of colour.

MAY

Hailee Steinfeld was on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial in the May issue, and it starred one thin, white model.

JUNE/JULY (Summer Issue)

FlareSummer2016_ZenMastery_Editorial_racism

The summer issue of Flare, covering June and July starred Eugenie Bouchard on the cover.

There were two editorials in the Summer issue of Flare. Both featured a thin, white model each, making this issue a Whiteout Issue.

FlareSummer2015_racistspread2

Above: from the “Zen Mastery” editorial in Flare Summer 2015

One of the editorials was particularly offensive, featuring a white model running around in Japanese-inspired clothing (pictured above).

AUGUST

Kate Mara was on the cover.

grace-mahary-by-norman-wong-for-flare-august-2015-5

Above: from Flare October 2015

There was one fashion editorial, starring Grace Mahary!

SEPTEMBER

Karlie Kloss was on the cover

This issue was an embarrassment in many ways. Kloss was on the cover of what turned out to be a heavily sponsored-by-Joe-Fresh advertorial–for Flare‘s SEPTEMBER issue, people! There were two fashion editorials (not counting the Joe Fresh advertorial) starring thin, white models. As such, the September issue for Flare was a Whiteout Issue.

OCTOBER

Lea Michele was on the cover.

There were two fashion editorials, both starring thin, white models.

NOVEMBER

Selena Gomez was on the cover.

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Above: from the “Joyhood” editorial in Flare November 2015

There were two fashion editorials both starring thin, white models. However, one of the editorials (pictured above) had some beautiful gender-bending happening, which we wrote about here.

DECEMBER

Flare_Dec2015_Zendaya

Zendaya was on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial to close out the year, starring one thin, white model.

 

 

My Must-Read List of Magazines

By: Emily Y.

Whoever says young people/millennials don’t read magazines is wrong—I consume them with unending zeal and always have. Fashion magazines are why I have good style. Lifestyle and cooking magazines are a big reason for why I am able to cook. Here’s the list of magazines I read on the regular.

Elle Canada, FASHION, Flare

ellecanada-oct15-cindy-article

Ah, my holy trinity of Canadian fashion magazines. Obviously, I need these magazines for my website as part of the ongoing Covers & Content column and our yearly recaps (even a few videos!)

flare october 2015 coverIf I didn’t ‘need’ these magazines, I would probably still subscribe to Elle Canada and FlareFlare has gotten really on-trend and relevant this past year especially, a must-have for young Canadian millenials I should think. Elle Canada very regularly features feminist content, which is weird for an offshoot of a major international magazine. I would not, however, subscribe to FASHION—it’s like a Canadian Vogue, and I don’t read Vogue unless someone really great is on the cover. The only thing I really like about FASHION are Elio Iannacci’s cover stories—he’s not afraid to ask deep questions and doesn’t shy away from discussing feminism with nearly every one of Fashion’s cover stars.

Bazaar

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I got the US Bazaar subscription this year as a birthday present from one of my friends, which I’m super grateful for since it has helped with content for this website. Bazaar is especially interesting to follow because of their dogged loyalty to alleged sexual offender/“fashion” photographer Terry Richardson. I never bought this magazine for this reason alone, but again, it was a lovely, helpful gift.

Bitch

bitchmagazinecover

I love Bitch magazine! This quarterly publication always has a cool theme for each issue (“Food”, “Red”, “Pulp”, amongst others) that you might wonder “how does this theme relate to feminism?” but it always does and its super great. Reading Bitch makes me smarter, and I love the new narratives, stories, and pieces of her story it introduces to me 4x a year. I will say though I feel like the past few issues haven’t been as strong as they usually are. I’m def not ready to throw in the towel yet though!
BUST

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BUST is probably the coolest magazine I subscribe to, and it breaks my heart that they only publish 6x a year. It’s an out loud and proud feminist magazine, but has tons of cool nuggets of info and entertainment. They have super cool cover stars (Grimes! Janelle Monae! Laverne Cox! Krysten Ritter! Dolly!), and I love how frequently they feature ‘plus’ models in their fashion editorials.

Canadian Living

Canadian-Living-May-2014I know—it’s strange that I, as a twenty-something living in a major city, subscribe to Canadian Living. But you know, I gotta say, I love all the Can-con, and their recipes are super accessible, easy, healthy, and delicious. Their fashion is even pretty good sometimes! I also like all the articles, they are timely and informative, and not stuff that I would otherwise seek out on my own  (usually the health stuff). Everything is well-researched, and proudly Canadian.

Love it: Flare November 2015 “Joyhood” Editorial

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The November issue of Flare featured a pleasant surprise–an androgynous, gender-bending makeup editorial called “Joyhood.” Starring model Riley D, it was styled by Jillian Vieira and shot by Peter Ash Lee.

Flare_Nov2015_Joyhood2

The shoot didn’t scream “HEY LOOK WE’RE DOING AN ANDROGYNOUS EDITORIAL EVERYONE!!!” Rather, the tagline for it was simply, “Coming to a town near you: late ’60s-inspired makeup with enough of today’s edge to make us all–yes, all–happy”

Flare_Nov2015_Joyhood1

Audra Williams recently questioned in the National Post, “Why does ‘gender neutral’ have to mean ‘without any traditionally feminine signifiers’?” Williams makes an excellent point, and Flare seems to have taken Williams’ question to heart, challenging this typical scenario with this editorial, leaving readers with great new beauty inspiration.

Well done, Flare!

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