Milan Rainbow: Spring 2017

A look from every colour of the rainbow–all from the Spring 2017 collections from Milan–based female designers!

RED

Above: Marni Spring 3017

ORANGE

Above: Stella Jean Spring 2017

YELLOW

Above: Prada Spring 2017

GREEN

Above: Versace Spring 2017

BLUE

Above: Luisa Beccaria Spring 2017

INDIGO

Above: La Perla Spring 2017

VIOLET

Above: Trussardi, Spring 2017

All images above from Vogue Runway.

Suited to the Task: Evan Rachel Wood

All eyes–and iPhones–were locked on Evan Rachel Wood at the Golden Globes this past January, when she chose to wear a custom Altuzarra tux instead of a gown. “I’m not trying to protest dresses, but I wanted to make sure that young girls and women know they aren’t a requirement,” she said, adding later, “I promised myself I would wear a suit to every awards show this year.”

  • Evan Rachel Wood in “Suit Yourself” by Wendy Kaur in Elle Canada April 2017

Other sharp suits for inspiration:

Above: Sonia by Sonia Rykiel Pre-Fall 2016

Above: Barbara Bui, Pre-Fall 2016

Above: Dondup, Pre-fall 2016

Above: Marni, Pre-fall 2016

Above: Ports 1961, Pre-Fall 2016

Above: Stella McCartney, Pre-fall 2016

Why are the Majority of Top Fall 2016 RTW Shows by Men?

TopFall2016_Runway_1-5

If you go over the to the Vogue Runway page for the Fall 2016 Ready to Wear Shows, you’ll be greeted by a banner that advertises the “Top Shows”. Something that immediately caught my eye was that the vast majority of the collections were designed by men.

Now, to be fair, there are a few things I’m unsure of when looking at the page:

  1. I don’t know if “Top Shows” is determined by viewer hits on the site OR if the shows are ranked by the editorial staff for the site
  2. The top shows might not necessarily be ranked the very best moving left to right as I’m assuming

Regardless, if we take it at face value: of the ten collections noted as “Top Shows,” only three were designed by women. Marni and Prada are entirely the efforts of female designers, and over at Valentino the credits are split between Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli.

Top Shows/Labels and their Designer:

  1. Lous Vuitton – Nicolas Ghesquière
  2. Valentino- Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli
  3. Chanel- Karl Lagerfeld
  4. Saint Laurent- Hedi Slimane
  5. Balenciaga-  Demna Gvasalia
  6. Loewe- Jonathan Anderson
  7. Balmain- Olivier Rousteing
  8. Dolce & Gabbana- Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce
  9. Marni- Consuelo Castiglioni
  10. Prada -Miuccia Prada

Above: Karl Lagerfeld with models wearing his Fall 2016 collection. Image here.

This is rather troubling because, by and large, societies tend to think of fashion as a stereotypical women’s thing. After all, nearly all the models on the runway are women, and the designs on the catwalk are primarily considered to be for self-identified women.

Despite this, you can see above that the most-lauded design houses are run by men. From behind the seams scenes, the people determining what should be worn on women’s bodies are men. No doubt these top male designers out-earn their female counterparts, and get the bulk of credit for shaping fashion history.

MiucciaPrada_fall2016

Above: Miuccia Prada takes a bow after her Fall 2016 show.

Just go to any fashion website or read any fashion magazine, and you’ll see that for all the thousands of articles run on Nicolas Ghesquière every year, a handful will also be written about Conseulo Castiglioni. It’s the typical, sad, sexist truth about our societies–be it writers, filmmakers, artists, musicians, and even fashion designers–we tend to focus on the work and achievements of men.

So, what’s to be done? For one, help change the focus and shift the conversation. At The Closet Feminist, we only pin runway shows that have a female head designer for that season. Read books by women. Listen to music by women. Appreciate art by women. Big steps and baby steps will get us there.

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