Covers & Content Annual Review 2016, Part 2: FASHION

The 2016 publishing year is over for our three favourite Canadian fashion magazines, so it’s time to look back on every issue printed this year by Elle Canada, Fashion, and Flare, to see how diverse they were overall compared to last year. Up next is FASHION!

For a review of the Covers & Content project, please check out the FAQ page here.

Closet Feminist Terminology

Whiteout Issue: an issue of a fashion magazine where neither the cover star nor models booked/used for any of the major editorials are people of colour.

Token Diversity Spread: When a fashion magazine books/uses an ensemble of models, including some models of colour or models representing other minorities in the fashion world (i.e., plus size models or visibly older models), but are careful not to allow the minorities chosen to make up the majority of the spread or the majority of models chosen.

Has FASHION improved at all over the years? Check out our data from the last three years.

FASHION 2013 Annual Review

FASHION 2014 Annual Review

FASHION 2015 Annual Review

Did you miss Part 1 of our 2016 review focused on Elle Canada? Check it out here.

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FASHION is such an odd magazine. It is by far and away the most popular Canadian fashion magazine, arguably featuring the more “aspirational” aspects of a traditional fashion magazine. As such, the content is usually quite dry and conservative. The reporting is a snooze, with the exception of the cover stories which are done by Elio Iannacci (whose feminist reporting and engaging interviews are a CF favourite).

This year, FASHION remained somewhat of an enigma. On the one hand, FASHION came out on top with the most issues featuring a woman of colour on the cover. On the other hand, it tied with Elle Canada for the most Whiteout Issues, which indicates the issues were either super awesome and diverse, or bizarrely whitewashed.

FASHION also stands out in 2016 for publishing two issues featuring an Asian woman on the cover (Soo Joo Park and Michelle Phan)–neither Elle Canada nor Flare managed to publish even one issue with an Asian woman on the cover, though they did publish issues with mixed race women.

That being said, FASHION is also unique in that it is the only Canadian fashion magazine this year that did not have a black woman on the cover solo. Elle Canada had Beyoncé, and Flare had Herieth Paul exclusively. Normani Kordei shared a cover with the rest of Fifth Harmony in the Summer issue of FASHION.

And now for the month-by-month breakdown!

JANUARY

FASHION does Winter issues, covering December/January. As such, the January issue of 2016 features the same data as their December 2015 issue. Chiara Ferragni was on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial in the December 2015/January 2016 issue of FASHION, and it starred one thin, white model. The editorial featured a racist collection, rather adding insult to injury considering this issue of FASHION was a Whiteout Issue.

FEBRUARY

Above: Natalie Dormer in the Feb 2016 issue of FASHION

The February issue was also a Whiteout Issue, starring Natalie Dormer on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial in this issue starring one thin, white model.

MARCH

For a third month in a row, FASHION produced a Whiteout Issue. Olivia Palermo was on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial in this issue starring one thin, white model.

APRIL

Finally, FASHION showed a little bit of diversity on their pages with Soo Joo Park on the cover (image from the shoot below).

There was one fashion editorial in this issue starring one thin, white model.

MAY

Olivia Munn was on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial in this issue starring one thin, white model.

JUNE/JULY

Fifth Harmony was on the cover of the Summer issue (covering June and July 2016), comprised of Dinah Jane Hansen, Ally Brooke Hernandez, Normani Kordei, Camila Cabello, and Lauren Jauregui.

There was one fashion editorial this month, starring one thin, white model.

AUGUST

Michelle Phan was on the cover.

Above: from the August 2016 issue of FASHION

There was one fashion editorial in this issue starring one thin, mixed-race model.

SEPTEMBER 

Karlie Kloss was the cover star of a boring Joe Fresh advertorial.

There are two fashion editorials in this issue. The first stars one thin, white model. The second stars Canadian mixed-race model Mackenzie Hamilton.

OCTOBER

Kate Bosworth was on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial this month, starring one thin, white model. This means that the October issue of FASHION was a Whiteout Issue.

NOVEMBER

Tatiana Maslany was on the cover.

Above: from FASHION November 2016

There were two fashion editorials in this issue. One starred one thin, white model. The second starred one thin model of colour.

DECEMBER

Above: from the FASHION Winter 2016 cover story

The December (and the January 2017 issue of FASHION) issue starred Hailee Steinfeld on the cover.

There were  two fashion editorials in this issue. One starred a thin, white model, and the second one starred one thin Latina/mixed race model.

Covers & Content: November 2016

How did the November 2016 issues of major Canadian fashion magazines stack up this month in terms of diversity? Read on to find out.

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The Magazine: FASHION

The Cover Star: Tatiana Maslany

Perceived Appearance of Cover Star: White

Does the magazine appear to feature any models of colour in the editorials?: Yes. There were two fashion editorials in this issue. One starred one thin, white model. The second starred one thin model of colour.

Does the magazine appear to feature any plus-size models in the editorials?: No.

 

mandymoore_cover-439x600

The Magazine: Flare

The Cover Star: Mandy Moore

Perceived Appearance of Cover Star: White

Does the magazine appear to feature any models of colour in the editorials?: Yes. There was one fashion editorial in this issue, starring one thin model of colour.

Does the magazine appear to feature any plus-size models in the editorials?: No.

 

this-cover-elle-canada-november-2016-dakota-fanning-nowa-beauty

The Magazine: Elle Canada

The Cover Star: Dakota Fanning

Perceived Appearance of Cover Star: White

Does the magazine appear to feature any models of colour in the editorials?: There were two fashion editorials in this issue, both starring thin, white models.

Does the magazine appear to feature any plus-size models in the editorials?: No.

Covers & Content Annual Review 2015, Part 3: Flare

2015 is over and done with, so it’s time to look back on every issue printed this year by Canada’s three top fashion magazines: Elle Canada, Fashion, and Flare, to see how diverse they were overall and compared to last year. Our last magazine up for scrutiny is Flare!

See Part 1 of our annual review on Elle Canada here.

See Part 2 of our annual review on FASHION here.

For a review of the Covers & Content project by The Closet Feminist, please check out the FAQ page here.

Closet Feminist Terminology

Whiteout Issue: an issue of a fashion magazine where neither the cover star nor models booked/used for any of the major editorials are people of colour.

Token Diversity Spread: When a fashion magazine books/uses an ensemble of models, including some models of colour or models representing other minorities in the fashion world (i.e., plus size models or visibly older models), but are careful not to allow the minorities chosen to make up the majority of the spread or the majority of models chosen

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IMG_3253

2015 was not a good year for diversity in Flare. They managed to do the same amount of Whiteout Issues as they did last year (5), meaning that they are the only magazine of the three examined here not to improve their Whiteout Issue count.

Flare_Covers&COntent_TABLE_2015

Flare tied with Elle Canada for most cover stars of colour–5 each. However, it should be noted that the March cover of Flare featured an ensemble of five models, but only one of the models was a woman of colour, essentially making their cover a Token Diversity Spread.

And now we go month-by-month…

JANUARY

Gillian Jacobs was on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial but it didn’t have any models (was just a accessories feature). Though there were no models in the editorial, I still count this as a Whiteout Issue since the focus of the major features was still on people who enjoy white privilege.

FEBRUARY

Olivia Palermo and her husband were on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial in the February issue of Flare, but it starred one thin, white model, making this issue a Whiteout Issue.

MARCH

Flare2015_cover

There were five women on the cover, models Jenna Lenfesty-Castilloux, Sophie Touchet, Shelby Furber, Charlotte Mingay, and Sasha Hronis. This is the cover equivalent of a Token Diversity Spread. The worst part is, is that in the article that the models were featured in, there were actually seven models total, including the five that were on the cover. There was one other model of colour besides Hronis–Ashley Foo. She and white model Nadiya Svirsky were not chosen for the cover. This is a crying shame as if Foo had been on the cover with Hronis, Flare’s efforts wouldn’t have been so transparently token.

There were two editorials in the March issue of Flare, not counting the cover story. Both featured a thin, white model each.

APRIL

Tatiana Maslany was on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial in the April issue. Rather repeating the sins of the March issue, it was a Token Diversity Spread as there were five models booked, but only one of them was a woman of colour.

MAY

Hailee Steinfeld was on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial in the May issue, and it starred one thin, white model.

JUNE/JULY (Summer Issue)

FlareSummer2016_ZenMastery_Editorial_racism

The summer issue of Flare, covering June and July starred Eugenie Bouchard on the cover.

There were two editorials in the Summer issue of Flare. Both featured a thin, white model each, making this issue a Whiteout Issue.

FlareSummer2015_racistspread2

Above: from the “Zen Mastery” editorial in Flare Summer 2015

One of the editorials was particularly offensive, featuring a white model running around in Japanese-inspired clothing (pictured above).

AUGUST

Kate Mara was on the cover.

grace-mahary-by-norman-wong-for-flare-august-2015-5

Above: from Flare October 2015

There was one fashion editorial, starring Grace Mahary!

SEPTEMBER

Karlie Kloss was on the cover

This issue was an embarrassment in many ways. Kloss was on the cover of what turned out to be a heavily sponsored-by-Joe-Fresh advertorial–for Flare‘s SEPTEMBER issue, people! There were two fashion editorials (not counting the Joe Fresh advertorial) starring thin, white models. As such, the September issue for Flare was a Whiteout Issue.

OCTOBER

Lea Michele was on the cover.

There were two fashion editorials, both starring thin, white models.

NOVEMBER

Selena Gomez was on the cover.

Riley-D-for-Flare-Magazine-by-Peter-Ash-Lee-5

Above: from the “Joyhood” editorial in Flare November 2015

There were two fashion editorials both starring thin, white models. However, one of the editorials (pictured above) had some beautiful gender-bending happening, which we wrote about here.

DECEMBER

Flare_Dec2015_Zendaya

Zendaya was on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial to close out the year, starring one thin, white model.

 

 

TV Icons, Spring 2015 Shows: Mashups Part 2

What if our favourite TV heroines shopped the Spring 2015 runways? Here is Part 2 of our series focusing on what we think they would pick and the occasion that they would wear this outfit for. As a bonus, the vast majority of design houses chosen have a woman holding court as head designer! Did you miss Part 1? Check it out here.

KAR_0221

Image above found here.

The Show: Battlestar Galactica

The Icon: Laura Roslin

laura-roslin

The Actress: Mary McDonnell

The Look: Donna Karan, Spring 2015 Ready To Wear

Why She’s Wearing It: The President of the Twelve Colonies and general Boss Lady of all time and space would probably not wear this beautiful suit with a crop top but then again, she’s running the show and can do what she wants.

Alice_Olivia_009_1366Image above found here.

The Show: Once Upon a Time

The Icon: Mary Margaret

Cast-Promotional-Photo-Ginnifer-Goodwin-as-Snow-White-Sister-Mary-Margaret-Blanchard-once-upon-a-time-25200013-446-595

The Actress: Ginnifer Goodwin

The Look: Alice + Olivia Spring 2015 Ready to Wear

Why She’s Wearing It: Remember when Mary Margaret was just a school teach oblivious to her bow-wielding, ass-kicking fairy tale past? Here’s what she would have been wearing back in those days–a bit more colour would be enchanting

paradaImage above found here.

The Show:Orphan Black

The Icon: Cosima

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The Actress: Tatiana Maslany

The Look: Prada Spring 2015

Why She’s Wearing It: Can’t you picture the bookish boho stoner clone Cosima bobbing through the stacks at the library in this gorgeous coat? Perfect for errands and then out for a drink with Delphine.

Theory_010_1366

The Show: X Files

The Icon: Scully

Gillian_Anderson_Scully

The Actress: Gillian Anderson

The Look: Theory Spring 2015

Why She’s Wearing It: Let’s get real, the only reason sh!t ever got done on the X-Files was because Scully was on the case lookin’ sharp and being smart. End of story.

vivienne tam

The Show: Witches of East End

The Icon: Ingrid Beauchamp

ingrid

The Actress: Rachel Boston

The Look: Vivienne Tam Spring 2015

Why She’s Wearing It: Once she was a bookish gal in super femme outfits working at a library, now she’s a spellbinding witch with a past life of being part of a orgy-crazed cult. This Vivienne Tam dress speaks to both of those roles.

 

 

Style Ode to Orphan Black, Part 2

Now that Season Two of Orphan Black is over, it seem only fitting that we catch up on the style of some of our favourite characters–our first instalment of this post was a hit, so get ready for more style focusing on the leading ladies of this amazing show.

Spoiler warning: None– unless you haven’t seen any of the show-these are all major characters in Season 2, and we won’t say how their stories end up, so if you’re still watching, don’t worry.

RACHEL DUNCAN

Imageseeee

OB rachel

Roland Mouret white dress, $2,140 / Reiss dress / Victoria Beckham blazer / Bolero jacket, $41 / Jimmy Choo black pumps / Irene Neuwirth rose gold bracelet

Whether or not you are a fan of pro-clone Rachel, you can’t deny she always looks sharp. Her clothes are perfectly minimalist and undoubtedly expensive, verging always on the border of sterile, hinting at her professional business.

DR. DELPHINE CORMIER

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OB delphine

While the chemistry between Cosima and Delphine (Evelyne Brochu) is believable or not, Delphine’s presence is appreciated for reppin’ women in science like many of her colleagues (and of course her gf, Cosima). She’s also got great style–lots of tops with lace detailing, whereas the bottom halves of her outfits are always pared down black jeans or trousers with the ubiquitous ankle boots.

MRS. S

maria

OB mrs s

Rail / ONLY blue jeans, $82 / Madden girl boots / Chanel black watch / Metropark rhinestone necklace / Étoile Isabel Marant rib knit beanie / Nars cosmetic

There’s not much room for glamour when you’re busy leading an underground movement, and generally being super hard core (in an awesome way) yet Mrs. S (Maria Doyle Kennedy) always seems to look the part. She can’t be running around in heels, but she always has time for a cup of tea–enemies or not.

GRACIE JOHANSSEN

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OB gracie

As one of the youngest major cast members, we’re really keen on seeing where they will take Gracie’s (Zoé De Grand Maison) story from here. She’s clearly super smart and not opposed to voicing her opinion, even if her simple wardrobe may belie such sensibilities.

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