Bibliostyle: Ilse from “Emily’s Quest”

Above: Simone Rocha Spring 2017

It would in truth have been a ghastly interview had it not been for Ilse, who chattered with all her old breeziness and tang, planning out a two weeks of gay doings while she was home […] the same lovable old madcap of laughter and jest and dressed with all her old gorgeous violations of accepted canons of taste. In an extraordinary dress–a thing of greenish-yellow. She had a big pink peony at her waist and another at her shoulder. She wore a bright green hat with a wreath of pink flowers on it. Great hoops of pearly swung in her ears. It was a weird costume. No one but Ilse could have worn it successfully. And she looked like the incarnation of a thousand tropic springs in it– exotic, provocative, beautiful. So beautiful!

  • from Emily’s Quest by L.M. Montgomery

Above: Rodarte Spring 2018

Above: Mary Katrantzou Spring 2017

Above: Molly Goddard, Spring 2017

Above: Luisa Beccaria, Resort 2018

Above: Etro, Spring 2017

Above: Alice + Olivia Pre Fall 2017

Above: Alena Akhmadullin Resort 2018

All images above from Vogue Runway

Spring 2017 Trend Report: Witchy

Are you a good witch or a bad witch? This spring, you can be both!

Imagery and awareness of magic and witchy women have grown increasingly the last couple years especially in the public eye. The fashion world has taken note, that is for certain. Whether you are a die-hard Stevie Nicks’ aesthetic, or are curious as to what Hermione Granger might wear should she embrace her inner wild woman, here are some looks from the Spring ’17 catwalks for inspiration. As always, all of these looks have been taken from design houses run by women!

Above: Wendy Nichol, Spring 2017

Wendy Nichol’s collections are always magic, regardless of season. The hood on this outfit is what makes it special.

Above: Cynthia Rowley, Spring 2017

A very water-goddess look from Cyntha Rowley above.

Above: Aganovitch, Spring 2017

Feel like the Aganovitch look above veers more towards Middle Earth wanderer, but hey, it takes all types.

Above: Alberta Ferretti, Spring 2017

Above: Cushnie et Ochs, Spring 2017

Above: Melitta Baumeister, Spring 2017

This Melitta Baumeister look above is probably my favourite of all these.

Above: Phoebe English, Spring 2017

A more classic goddess look above from Phoebe English.

Above: Simone Rocha, Spring 2017

Above: Sonia Rykiel, Spring 2017

Above: Veronique Branquinho, Spring 2017

The small streak of blood-red lipstick on the lower lip of all the models in the Veronique Branquinho show above made a huge impact. Note to self!

Above: Wanda Nylon, Spring 2017

All images above from Vogue Runway.

Recommended reading for magical folks:

 The Spiral Dance by Starhawk

Jailbreaking the Goddess by Lasara Firefox Allen

What Is Not Yours Is Not Yours by Helen Oyeyemi

White Is For Witching by Helen Oyeyemi

The Goddess Chronicle by Natsuo Kirino

Bitch Media’s Popaganda episode on Magic, here.

 

Fantasy Wedding Dresses

I’m getting married in the next year or so, here are my dream wedding dresses if money was no object.

TEA LENGTH DRESSES

05-dice-kayek-resort-black-17_wedding

Above: I love this Dice Kayek Resort 2017 dress. It’s simple, and I wouldn’t have to worry about complicated underwear.

Below: I love the structure of this Simone Rocha Spring 2016 dress, but obviously I would have to re-work the top so it’s not sheer.

simonerocha_spring2016_wedding

SEPERATES

luisabeccariaspring2016_wedding

Above: I love the idea of wearing separates. I love the skirt from the Luisa Beccaria Spring 2016 look above, and the Rosie Assoulin Spring 2016 look below. Just a matter of finding a different top.

rosie-assoulin-rtw-spring-2016-wedding

LONG SLEEVES

monique-lhuillier-pre-fall-2016-lookbook-wedding

Above: I love the simplicity of this Monique Lhuillier Pre-Fall 2016 dress

I want a cool-weather wedding for sure (hard pass on wedding season, thanks), so long sleeves are just practical.

Below: My utilitarian bride look from Alexander McQueen Spring 2016

alexandermcqueen_spring2016_wedding

Below: Another super-simple dress, this one by Kate Ermilio from her Fall 2016 collection.

11-katie-ermilio-fall-2016-ready-to-wear_wedding

SOMETHING DIFFERENT

emiliawickstead_spring2016_wedding

Above: I love, love, love the blooms and bright colours of this dress from Emilia Wickstead Spring 2016

I’m not wholly committed to wearing white, if I see a colourful or print dress that I want to be married in, I’m going for it. These three dresses definitely caught my eye–perfect for a party, elegant, and memorable.

08-valentino-resort-17_wedding

Above: This Valentino Resort 2017 dress is mostly white, tea-length, and the print is just enough.

Below: Love them long sleeves and tea length, plus black and gold for maximum drama? This Marchesa Notte Spring 2016 dress is amazing

marchesa-notte-spring-2016_wedding

Below: This Raquel Allegra Pre-Fall 2016 dress is the most casual on this list for sure, but hey, if all the wedding planning drives me crazy and I’m too stressed to get into something more formal, I would definetly wear this.

raquel-allegra-pre-fall-2016-lookbook-24_wedding

THE CLASSIC BRIDAL LOOK

36-rosie-assoulin-fall-2016-ready-to-wear_swedding

Above: This Rosie Assoulin Fall 2016 dress is definitely the most recognizable as wedding dress, and I do really love it. It looks like it presents some logistical challenges underwear-wise, but I love all the structural details.

What I Would Have Worn to the 2016 Met Gala

I was talking with CF Advising Editor Lydia the other day, and we agreed on two things about this year’s Met Gala:

  1. The dresses were incredibly dull overall. A few stand-out looks, but overall just not as good as last year’s gala.
  2. Where was Janelle Monaé???? Her aesthetic totally embodies the theme of “Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology.” It was an insult to us that she was not there.

So, let’s play a game. I’ll play stylist for myself, and show what I would wear if I were to attend (all looks by lady designers, of course)

IF YOU INSIST ON METALLICS, LET THEM NOT BE SILVER

zimmermann_fall2016_met

Above: Zimmermann Fall 2016

Vionnet_Spring2016_met2016

Above: Vionnet Spring 2016

09-vika-gazinskaya-fall-2016-ready-to-wear

Above: Vika Gazinskaya Fall 2016

The obvious choice for this event, the dresses above push past the ‘been there done that’ metallic column dress, especially since they are not silver. Lupita Nyong’o totally got the memo on this for this year’s event with her sparkly green dress.

The blue Zimmermann dress above was spot-on, I’d wear this whole look right off the runway as-is. I love the Vionnet dress above as well, it has a modest silhouette but a unique sheen. Plus, I think Lineisy Montero looks like an angel in it. The Vika Gazinskaya dress is quite playful, so it would need some careful styling to make sure it doesn’t get too costume-y.

EXTREME SILHOUETTES

I was kind of shocked at how safe the silhouettes were overall on the Met Gala red carpet. To me, that would be the first thing to reach for.

More dramatic silhouettes speak to architecture, machines–the late and great Zaha Hadid comes to mind as she envisioned the spaces of our future.

Another reason I would want a different silhouette is the freedom that should come with it: shapes that are neither feminine or masculine, that do not emphasize a waist or bust or broad shoulders.

rosie-assoulin-034-resort2016 rosie-assoulin-resort2016_1

I love Rosie Assoulin‘s designs, and I love how she insists on diversity for her lookbooks and presentations. The dress is a safer choice, I would do the extreme makeup with it (bleached eyebrows, dark lips, zany hair), then let the dress speak for iteself. For the jumpsuit, I would use the pure white as a blank canvas to bring in harsh metal accessories. Perhaps a simple circlet on my head, and matching metal cuffs on the wrist or upper arms.

commedesgarcons_fall2016_2 CommedesGarcons_fall2016

I think that Rei Kawakubo is a genius, though I have issues with the fact she never uses models of colour on her runways. Her two looks above from Commes des Garçons definitely wold have been my top top picks, and I think its kinda criminal no one wore her stuff to this year’s Gala. Seems so obvious. I love how the first dress has a vulva-shape to it–the future is female!

ANOTHER DIMENSION

04-iris-van-herpen-fall-2016-ready-to-wear

Above: Iris van Herpen Fall 2016

SimoneRocha_Spring2016

Above: Simone Rocha Spring 2016

Threeasfour_spring2016

Threeasfour Spring 2016

If I couldn’t get my hands on an actual 3D printed dress, I would look for dresses with a regular silhouette with 3D elements or dimensional details. Iris van Herpen is an obvious choice, but my only hang-up with the look above is that it’s too short. What can I say, I’m old-fashioned and think longer dresses are more red-carpet.

The Simone Rocha dress has the dimensionality I would want, but I would style it very carefully to emphasize the modernity of it, and play down the saccharine aspects of the dress.

The Threeasfour dress is pretty boring save the shoulder, so I would definitely take more beauty risks if I were to wear this dress.

 

London Rainbow: Spring 2015

Looking for a little ROY G. BIV inspiration? Here is the best look per colour, straight off the Spring 2015 RTW runways. The best part? All of these outfits are from design houses headed by women!

 RED

SimoneRocha_Spring2015_Red

Above: Dress by Simone Rocha, Spring 2015

ORANGE

EmiliaWickstead_Spring2015_Orange

Above: Dress by Emilia Wickstead, Spring 2015

YELLOW

Sophia_Kah_Spring2015_Yellow_London

Above: Sophia Kah Spring 2015

GREEN

VivienneWestwood_Spring2015_Green

Above: Vivienne Westwood, Spring 2015

BLUE

Roksanda_Spring2015_Blue

Above: Roksanda Spring 2015

INDIGO

ErinFetherson_Spring2015_IndigoAbove: Erin Fetherson, Spring 2015

VIOLET

VivienneWestwood_Spring2015_Violet

Above: Vivienne Westwood, Spring 2015

 

Check out 150+ more of our favourite looks by female designers from London Fashion Week Spring 2015 here.

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