“In Europe, the stories [in movies]–especially for women–are so much more interesting than in the United States [...] I think that television has always been great for women, but with movies, we still have a ways to go. Maybe I don’t have the same opportunities that other actresses have here, but I think it’s such a rarity to find really good female-centred films.”
- Diane Kruger in “What Lies Beneath” by Aliyah Shamsher in Elle Canada September 2015
Our most popular pins right now seem to be mostly focused on the Resort 2016 lookbooks. At The Closet Feminist, we pin every major fashion season, focusing exclusively on the collections designed by women. We comment on the diversity–or lack thereof, of a designer’s runway presentation or lookbook.
TOP 5 PINS ON THE CLOSET FEMINIST CURRENTLY
We love that Ferretti took care to book a model of colour, making this lookbook one of the more diverse that we saw for the Resort 2016 collections. Also, the skirt-pants situation on the model on the left are amazing!
Did you know that Lhullier is a woman of colour? This is rare in the world of high fashion, which is notoriously lacking in diversity.
The only pin not about the Resort 2016 collections in this list focuses on 10 top must-have ‘plus’ clothing items.
Like Alberta Ferretti, Versace’s Resort 2016 collection lookbook was conscientious in including a model of colour. If we consider both the popularity of these pins, and what the content of these pins themselves represent, might we suggest that Pinterest fans and fashion fiends want to see more diverse content?
This cool look from Rachel Zoe seems in line with the Spring/Summer 2016 trend we saw on the runways–warm-weather suiting!
Want to see our pins on other fashion seasons, focusing exclusively on collections designed by women? Here are a few more of our recent boards
Normally we do our Covers & Content column on Canadian fashion magazines only, but this year we’ll be focusing on Bazaar US as well. So how did the issue of the year, the September issue of Bazaar fare in terms of diversity? Read on to find out.
Above: The newsstand cover of Bazaar (US) September 2015
The Issue: Bazaar (US) September 2015
Editorial comment: Is Katy Perry even relevant still? This issue contained an interview with Empire star Taraji P. Henson–they should have put her on the cover.
Perceived Appearance of Cover Star: White
Does the magazine appear to feature any models of colour in the editorials?: Being the behemoth September issue, this issue contained 6 editorials.
Despite having six editorials, only one –the first one by Carine Roitfeld and Jean-Paul Goude featured women of colour. Pretty bad odds, all things considered.
Thankfully, none of the editorials were shot by Bazaar pet and alleged sexual offender Terry Richardson, a very positive sign given this is their biggest issue of the year.
Does the magazine appear to feature any plus-size models in the editorials?: Yes, if you count the celebrities featured in the first editorial. you will see some folks who are not stick-thin.
Above: The subscriber cover of Bazaar (US) September 2015
Two out of three of Canada’s top fashion magazines– Fashion, and Flare–had articles in their September issues about the current style “trend” that blurs the gender boundaries. While people of all genders have been queering their wardrobes for centuries, its good to see mainstream press embracing non-binary ideas of style and manners of dress. Here are the best quotes from each magazine’s take.
Above: From FASHION Magazine’s September editorial “Team Spirit,” image found here.
Take [Andreja] Pejić–who was on the cover of FASHION Magazine‘s February 2012 issue well before Caitlyn Jenner arrived. She first made her mark in fashion in 2010 a womenswear model in French Vogue while identifying as an androgynous male (her Australian passport allowed her to have an “X” rather than an “F” or “M” in the gender box) but then transition to female in 2014. She has since appeared in Vogue and just landed a major contract (alongside actress Jamie Ching) with professional cosmetics line Make Up For Ever [...] Pejić’s ascent reflects a new embrace of gender fluidity in the fashion world–an industry that plays a significant role in how gender is defined and displayed.
- from “Gender Revolution” by Rachel Giese in FASHION Magazine September 2015
Above: from the Baja East Resort 2016 lookbook, image found here.
Forward-thinking labels like New York-based Baja East, which launched in 2013 as an “ambisexual” line, are part of the shift away from these stark contrasts. For instance, at its first runway show, designers John Targon and Scott Studenberg had male and female models switch clothing mid-presentation to illustrate their fluid philosophy. The label’s latest lookbook for resort ’16 shows two sexually ambiguous models side by side wearing the same trousers, tunic, and crop top. “‘Genderless’ is another label,” says Targon. “Our whole idea was to get away from labels.” Although the designers admit that not all men will feel comfortable in a backless jumpsuit, it comes down to letting the customer choose without creating any restrictions or preconceptions. “For us, it’s about how a person interacts with clothing, and the attitude a garment takes on when someone, anyone, wears it,” says Studenberg. “‘Androgynous’ is more of a sexless word–I don’t want to feel sexless, but I want to wear whatever I want to wear.”
- from “Blurred Vision” by Malwina Gudowska in Flare September 2015
“Nowadays, being a woman is hard, because we have to be the best wife, best mother, best worker, best everything!” she says, sounding a little exasperated. “But I truly believe we are more empowered. Men are more women-friendly in this generation…We’re also stronger, sophisticated, and can achieve what we want. That’s what I would like my daughter to know.”
- Gal Gadot in “The Gal Who Changed Hollywood” by Elio Iannacci in Fashion August 2015