Covers & Content Annual Review 2015, Part 3: Flare

2015 is over and done with, so it’s time to look back on every issue printed this year by Canada’s three top fashion magazines: Elle Canada, Fashion, and Flare, to see how diverse they were overall and compared to last year. Our last magazine up for scrutiny is Flare!

See Part 1 of our annual review on Elle Canada here.

See Part 2 of our annual review on FASHION here.

For a review of the Covers & Content project by The Closet Feminist, please check out the FAQ page here.

Closet Feminist Terminology

Whiteout Issue: an issue of a fashion magazine where neither the cover star nor models booked/used for any of the major editorials are people of colour.

Token Diversity Spread: When a fashion magazine books/uses an ensemble of models, including some models of colour or models representing other minorities in the fashion world (i.e., plus size models or visibly older models), but are careful not to allow the minorities chosen to make up the majority of the spread or the majority of models chosen

***

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2015 was not a good year for diversity in Flare. They managed to do the same amount of Whiteout Issues as they did last year (5), meaning that they are the only magazine of the three examined here not to improve their Whiteout Issue count.

Flare_Covers&COntent_TABLE_2015

Flare tied with Elle Canada for most cover stars of colour–5 each. However, it should be noted that the March cover of Flare featured an ensemble of five models, but only one of the models was a woman of colour, essentially making their cover a Token Diversity Spread.

And now we go month-by-month…

JANUARY

Gillian Jacobs was on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial but it didn’t have any models (was just a accessories feature). Though there were no models in the editorial, I still count this as a Whiteout Issue since the focus of the major features was still on people who enjoy white privilege.

FEBRUARY

Olivia Palermo and her husband were on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial in the February issue of Flare, but it starred one thin, white model, making this issue a Whiteout Issue.

MARCH

Flare2015_cover

There were five women on the cover, models Jenna Lenfesty-Castilloux, Sophie Touchet, Shelby Furber, Charlotte Mingay, and Sasha Hronis. This is the cover equivalent of a Token Diversity Spread. The worst part is, is that in the article that the models were featured in, there were actually seven models total, including the five that were on the cover. There was one other model of colour besides Hronis–Ashley Foo. She and white model Nadiya Svirsky were not chosen for the cover. This is a crying shame as if Foo had been on the cover with Hronis, Flare’s efforts wouldn’t have been so transparently token.

There were two editorials in the March issue of Flare, not counting the cover story. Both featured a thin, white model each.

APRIL

Tatiana Maslany was on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial in the April issue. Rather repeating the sins of the March issue, it was a Token Diversity Spread as there were five models booked, but only one of them was a woman of colour.

MAY

Hailee Steinfeld was on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial in the May issue, and it starred one thin, white model.

JUNE/JULY (Summer Issue)

FlareSummer2016_ZenMastery_Editorial_racism

The summer issue of Flare, covering June and July starred Eugenie Bouchard on the cover.

There were two editorials in the Summer issue of Flare. Both featured a thin, white model each, making this issue a Whiteout Issue.

FlareSummer2015_racistspread2

Above: from the “Zen Mastery” editorial in Flare Summer 2015

One of the editorials was particularly offensive, featuring a white model running around in Japanese-inspired clothing (pictured above).

AUGUST

Kate Mara was on the cover.

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Above: from Flare October 2015

There was one fashion editorial, starring Grace Mahary!

SEPTEMBER

Karlie Kloss was on the cover

This issue was an embarrassment in many ways. Kloss was on the cover of what turned out to be a heavily sponsored-by-Joe-Fresh advertorial–for Flare‘s SEPTEMBER issue, people! There were two fashion editorials (not counting the Joe Fresh advertorial) starring thin, white models. As such, the September issue for Flare was a Whiteout Issue.

OCTOBER

Lea Michele was on the cover.

There were two fashion editorials, both starring thin, white models.

NOVEMBER

Selena Gomez was on the cover.

Riley-D-for-Flare-Magazine-by-Peter-Ash-Lee-5

Above: from the “Joyhood” editorial in Flare November 2015

There were two fashion editorials both starring thin, white models. However, one of the editorials (pictured above) had some beautiful gender-bending happening, which we wrote about here.

DECEMBER

Flare_Dec2015_Zendaya

Zendaya was on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial to close out the year, starring one thin, white model.

 

 

Bibliostyle: Catherynne M. Valente’s “Fade to White”

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Above: Rosie Assoulin Resort 2016

Finally the dress. The team at Spotless Corp. encouraged foundational garments to emphasize the bust and waist-to-hip ratio. Sylvie wedged herself into a full-length merry widow with built-in padded bra and rear. It crushed her, it smoothed her, flattened her. Her waist disappeared. She pulled the dress over her bound-in body. Her mother would have to button her up; twenty-seven tiny, satin-covered buttons ran up her back like a new spine. Its neckline plunged; its skirt flounced, showing calf and a suggestion of knee. It was miles of icy white lace, it could hardly be anything else, but the sash gleamed red. Red, red, red. All the world is red and I am red forever, Sylvie thought. She was inside the dress, inside the other girl.

The other girl was very striking.

Sylvie was fifteen years old, and by suppertime she would be engaged.

  • from “Fade to White” in The Melancholy of Mechagirl by Catherynne M. Valente

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Above: Alberta Ferretti Limited Edition Fall 2015 Couture

Below: Alexander McQueen Fall 2015

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Above: Alexander McQueen Spring 2016

Below: Blumarine Spring 2016

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Above: Marchesa Notte Fall 2015

Below: Ulyana Sergeenko Spring 2015 Couture

Ulyana_Sergeenko_spring15couture Alessandra_Rich_spring2015

Above: Alessandra Rich Spring 2015

Covers & Content Annual Review 2015, Part 2: FASHION

2015 is over and done with, so it’s time to look back on every issue printed this year by Canada’s three top fashion magazines: Elle Canada, Fashion, and Flare, to see how diverse they were overall compared to last year. Up next is FASHION!

Miss Part 1 of our annual review focusing on Elle Canada? Check it out here.

For a review of the Covers & Content project by The Closet Feminist, please check out the FAQ page here.

Closet Feminist Terminology

Whiteout Issue: an issue of a fashion magazine where neither the cover star nor models booked/used for any of the major editorials are people of colour.

Token Diversity Spread: When a fashion magazine books/uses an ensemble of models, including some models of colour or models representing other minorities in the fashion world (i.e., plus size models or visibly older models), but are careful not to allow the minorities chosen to make up the majority of the spread or the majority of models chosen

***

While Elle Canada may have had only one issue starring a woman of colour in 2015, they did better than FASHION in 2015, which offered zero issues with a cover star of colour–booooo!

Covers&Content_TABLE_Fashion_2015_v1

FASHION made one minor improvement though–in 2014 they had eight Whiteout Issues, but in 2015 ‘only’ seven Whiteout Issues.

Another win for FASHION was the diversity of the models they booked in 2015–they had four issues featuring models of colour (better than Elle Canada, which only had two issues featuring models of colour!)

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Now here’s the month-by-month breakdown:

JANUARY

As this “Winter” issue comprises both the December 2014 issue and January 2015 issue, it means that FASHION started 2015 with a Whiteout Issue. Evangeline Lilly was on the cover, and there is one editorial starring one thin, white model.

FEBRUARY

FASHION_Feb2015_Strong&Free_Editorial

Above: from the February 2015 editorial “Strong & Free” in FASHION.

Anna Kendrick was on the cover.

There were two fashion editorials in the Feb issue of FASHION. The first was awesome and starred a diverse cast of models (above). The second was status quo starring one thin, white model.

MARCH

Gwen Stefani was on the cover.

There were two fashion editorials in the March issue of FASHION, and both starred thin, white models. That means this issue was a Whiteout Issue.

APRIL

Elisha Cuthbert was on the cover.

FASHION_April2015_NIghtVision_Editorial

Above: From the “Night Vision” editorial in FASHION April 2015.

There were two editorials in this issue–and both starred thin, black models! It is incredibly rare for a fashion magazine to have multiple fashion editorials for which they book models of colour exclusively. In fact, FASHION was the only Canadian fashion magazine of the three discussed in this review to do this in 2015!

MAY

Elizabeth Olsen was on the cover.

There were two fashion editorials in the May issue of FASHION, and both starred thin, white models. That means this issue was a Whiteout Issue.

JUNE/JULY

Ashley Benson was on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial in the Summer (June/July) issue of FASHION. It starred one thin, white model, meaning this issue was a Whiteout Issue.

AUGUST

Gal Gadot was on the cover.

There were two fashion editorials in the August issue of FASHION, and both starred thin, white models. That means this issue was a Whiteout Issue.

SEPTEMBER

FASHION_September2015_TeamSpiritEditorial2Image above: from the “Team Spirit” editorial in FASHION September 2015

Taylor Hill and Elsa Hosk were on the cover.

There were two fashion editorials this month if you could the Hill/Hosk cover story. The cover story was typical, but the second editorial was AWESOME, and starred two Asian models in androgynous, gender-bending clothing.

OCTOBER

Sarah Gadon was on the cover.

There were two fashion editorials in the October issue of FASHION, and both starred thin, white models. That means this issue was a Whiteout Issue.

NOVEMBER

Alana Zimmer was on the cover.

If you count Zimmer’s cover story, there were two fashion editorials this month. The second starred one thin, black model.

DECEMBER

Chiara Ferragni was on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial in the December 2015/January 2016 issue of FASHION, and it starred one thin, white model. The editorial featured a racist collection, rather adding insult to injury considering this issue of FASHION was a Whiteout Issue.

 

The Closet Feminist Top Pins Feb 2016

Here are the top pins currently on The Closet Feminist–you folks are sure loving the J. Crew Spring collection this month!

JCrew_Spring2016_RTW_1

Above: J. Crew Spring 2016 here

These super-bold striped palazzo pants from J. Crew are your top pin right now! Love the sailor details and mixing the different width of stripes.

JCrew_Spring2016_RTW_2

Above: J. Crew Spring 2016 here

Another nautical number from J. Crew takes up the second spot this month. Love the pop of the turquoise gingham shoes.

Alice+Olivia_Spring2016_RTW

Above: Alice + Olivia Spring 2016 here

A folk-y number for Alice + Olivia nabs third place. The colour of the crop top is so bold and balances the lady-like skirt nicely.

JCrew_Spring2016_RTW_3

Above: J. Crew Spring 2016 here

So many great things happening in this outfit, but the duster in the fresh blue and white pinstripes takes the cake!

RosettaGetty_Spring2016_rtw

Above: Rosetta Getty Spring 2016 here

Quite different from the other favoured pins and taking 5th place this month is this beautiful, minimalist Rosetta Getty dress. The bold gold earrings are a nice touch.

Covers & Content Annual Review 2015, Part 1: Elle Canada

2015 is over and done with, so it’s time to look back on every issue printed this year by Canada’s three top fashion magazines: Elle Canada, Fashion, and Flare, to see how diverse they were overall compared to last year. Up first is Elle Canada!

This review will be divided into three parts (one for each magazine), just like we did last year in 2014 and in previously 2013.

For a review of the Covers & Content project, please check out the FAQ page here.

Closet Feminist Terminology

Whiteout Issue: an issue of a fashion magazine where neither the cover star nor models booked/used for any of the major editorials are people of colour.

Token Diversity Spread: When a fashion magazine books/uses an ensemble of models, including some models of colour or models representing other minorities in the fashion world (i.e., plus size models or visibly older models), but are careful not to allow the minorities chosen to make up the majority of the spread or the majority of models chosen.

***

Elle Canada what happened this year (wait–did I say the same thing last year?)?? While there was lots of solid reporting in this publication in 2015, diversity improved very slightly: of the twelve issues Elle Canada had on the newsstands in 2015, only one starred a woman of colour exclusively. In 2014, they had zero covers starring a woman of colour exclusively.

TheClosetFeminist_Covers&Content_2015_Table_ElleCanada

Only two issues had editorials featuring models of colour.

There is, overall, some signs of improvement. In 2014, Elle Canada put out seven Whiteout Issues, and in 2015, they only did five. 

So here we go, month by month.

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JANUARY

Alana Zimmer was on the cover.

There were three fashion editorials, two of which were typical by featuring thin, white models).

The third editorial featured an ensemble of models, but the one POC they booked for the shoot was only seen once, making it a Token Diversity Spread.

FEBRUARY

Katie Holmes was on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial this month, starring one thin, Asian model.

MARCH

Kate Bosworth was on the cover.

There were three fashion editorials, all starring thin, white models, making the March issue of Elle Canada a Whiteout Issue. Read the praise/criticism for this interesting but slightly-off issue here.

APRIL

ElleCanada_April2015_editorial_weirdlyracist

Above: from the bizarre/racist editorial “Shape Shifter” in Elle Canada April 2015.

Phoebe Tonkin was on the cover.

There were two fashion editorials this month. The first starred one thin, white model in weirdly racist editorial (pictured above). The second starred one thin, Asian model.

MAY

Bella Thorne was on the cover.

There were three fashion editorials, all starring thin, white models, making the May issue of Elle Canada a Whiteout Issue.

JUNE

Taylor Schilling was on the cover.

There were two fashion editorials, both starring thin, white models, making the June issue of Elle Canada a Whiteout Issue.

JULY

Anaïs Pouliot was on the cover.

There were two fashion editorials, both starring thin, white models, making the July issue of Elle Canada a Whiteout Issue.

AUGUST

Carly Rae Jepsen was on the cover.

There were no fashion editorials in the August issue of Elle Canada. There was a sort of collage thing which featured a racist collection, though.

SEPTEMBER

ElleCanada_Sept2015_TheCF

Above: from editorial “We’re all mad here” in Elle Canada Sept. 2015

Diane Kruger was on the cover.

Elle Canada did one major fashion editorial for their September issue. It starred 6 models, but only one of them was a woman of colour (Hannah D. of Elite Toronto). There was also one older model (Judith Maria Bradley). Despite the unique casting, this spread counts as a Token Diversity Spread. 

OCTOBER

Cindy Crawford was on the cover.

There were two fashion editorials, both starring thin, white models, making the October issue of Elle Canada a Whiteout Issue.

NOVEMBER

Gigi Hadid was on the cover.

There were two fashion editorials, both starring thin, white models, making the November issue of Elle Canada a Whiteout Issue.

DECEMBER

Kylie Jenner was on the cover.

There were two fashion editorials, both starring thin, white models.

 

 

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