Gloss over This: Christy Turlington Burns

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In the U.S., two or three women a day die in childbirth [...] Because our [the American] health system is in disrepair, a lot of women fall through the cracks. of Maternal health treatment, Turlington Burns says, “it’s a serious indicator of when a country is prioritizing its women.”

- Christy Turlington Bruns in “A Class of Her Own” by Laura deCarufel in Elle Canada September 2014

Canadian Designers, Androgynous Style

Something caught our eye with the Fall 2014 collections of Canadian designers–a great deal of them are very, very androgynous, or at least more willing to break the binary than their American or European counterparts. We’re impressed–oftentimes androgynous offerings are shapeless and drown the body in fabric with nothing special in the way of tailoring. These collections have the perfect amount of fluidity, angles, and everything in between, all while looking chic and on-trend. See for yourself below!

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Above (2): Rad Hourani F/W 2014 

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Above (2): a.a. Antonio  Azzuolo F/W 2014

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Above: Marie Saint Pierre Fall 2014 

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Above (2): Chris Gelinas Fall 2014

 

Gloss over This: Tiio Horn

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“What I relate to is she’s a gypsy,” Horn says [of her character Destiny on Hemlock Grove]. “I found a lot of similarities between gypsies and Native people, they way they’re treated, and how they’re kind of on the fringe.” Horn grew up on the Kahnawake reserve outside Montreal; her mother, Mohawk activist Kahentinetha Horn, would share stories of the civil rights movement in the ’60s [...]Her Mom’s activism has inspired her to write a short film, casting herself as Kahentinetha. “I feel like there’s a huge responsibility for the younger people to start documenting these stories.”

- Tiio Horn in “The New Kids on The Block” by Ryan Porter in Flare September 2014

Covers & Content: September 2014

The September Issues are the most important issue a fashion magazine puts out during the publishing year. This being said, let’s see how Canada’s three biggest fashion magazines fared diversity-wise this month…

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The Magazine: Flare

The Cover Star: Chloë Grace Moretz

Perceived Appearance of Cover Star: White

Does the magazine appear to feature any models of colour in the editorials?: Yes. Flare did three editorials this month. The first did something relatively rare for a magazine–the spread starred three models, two of whom are women of colour. This rather inverts the precedent we have for our definition of a Token Diversity Spread, which we define as:

When a fashion magazine books/uses an ensemble of models, including some models of colour or models representing other minorities in the fashion world (i.e., plus size models or visibly older models), but are careful not to allow the minorities chosen to make up the majority of the spread or the majority of models chosen.

The second editorial is very status quo, starring 2 white models. The third and last fshion editorial in the September 2014 issue of Flare stars one white model.

Does the magazine appear to feature any plus-size models in the editorials?: No

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The Magazine: Fashion

The Cover Star: Lana del Rey

Perceived Appearance of Cover Star: White

Does the magazine appear to feature any models of colour in the editorials?: No–yikes, for their biggest issue of the year, Fashion opted to have a Whiteout Issue, the only magazine of the three to do so. This is also a step back from what Fashion did last year for their September issue. We define a Whiteout Issue as:

An issue of a fashion magazine where neither the cover star nor models booked/used for any of the major editorials are people of colour.

Does the magazine appear to feature any plus-size models in the editorials?: No

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The Magazine: Elle Canada

The Cover Star: Mia Wasikowska

Perceived Appearance of Cover Star: White

Does the magazine appear to feature any models of colour in the editorials?: Yes, this issue of Elle Canada had three editorials, one of which starred a model of colour (Canadian stunner Grace Mahary!).

Does the magazine appear to feature any plus-size models in the editorials?: No

 

Well Dressed, Well Read: Iris Murdoch’s “The Unicorn”

She looked in the mirror. She was wearing a new terracotta-coloured shot silk evening dress which Hannah had insisted on giving her, after ordering it, with several others, secretly on approval especially for Marian. Marian had felt uneasy at accepting the present, but the idea and the charming way the dress fitted her and suited her had delighted Hannah so much that the girl had not in the end had the heart to say no; and of course it was a wonderful dress, and one which, quite apart from its price, she would never have had the discrimination and the nerve to buy herself. Since the ruby and pearl necklace didn’t look quite right with it, she was wearing, as a finishing touch, a collar of irregular amber beads which Hannah had selected, after minute research, from her own store, and which she patently intended Marian to keep, though she had tactfully not said so yet.

-from The Unicorn by Iris Murdoch

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