NYFW Fall 2016 Catwalk Diversity Spotlight: Zac Posen

Runway diversity for fashion week–any year, any city, any season–is a notorious problem in the fashion industry. Thin, white models reign supreme, with little signs of change. The Fall 2016 collections, however, have had a few head-turning collections where diverse casting was clearly taken into careful consideration. Well done and three cheers for these New York-based designers!

Previously: Sophie Theallet, Chromat

ZAC POSEN

The Closet Feminist has been a longtime admirer of Zac Posen‘s dedicated efforts to being an ally in the fashion world.

Being an ally is a key word here. For example, in this mini-series we have noted to female designers Sophie Theallet and Chromat have also cast incredibly diverse shows this season. Yet, for some reason, Posen is the one who keeps on getting all the press for his efforts. It would have been cool if Posen could have taken his status as an ally a step further by recognizing Theallet and Chromat’s efforts alongside his own.

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It just goes to show that while fashion claims to be about and for women, men still seem to get most of the credit in this industry. People fall all over Karl Lagerfeld, and barely a whisper is heard about Sarah Burton, suggesting women designers have to work twice, four times as hard to get a fraction of the credit and press. This bias is one of the reasons why here at The Closet Feminist, about ninety percent our columns and articles focus on the work of female designers only.

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Of course, it is excellent that Posen cast predominantly black models for his Fall 2016 show. He still played it relatively safe though–both the Sophie Theallet and Chromat show took things a step further by casting ‘plus’ models as well.

Still, a job well done to Posen. His shows are always relatively more diverse than his peers, here’s hoping he continues to push catwalk diversity for many years to come.

All photos above from Vogue Runway here.

 

NYFW Fall 2016 Catwalk Diversity Spotlight: Chromat

Runway diversity for fashion week–any year, any city, any season–is a notorious problem in the fashion industry. Thin, white models reign supreme, with little signs of change. The Fall 2016 collections, however, have had a few head-turning collections where diverse casting was clearly taken into careful consideration. Well done and three cheers for these New York-based designers!

Previously: Sophie Theallet

CHROMAT

Vogue Runway reviewer Steff Yotka said it best:

Chromat’s Becca McCharen doesn’t make excuses. Where other designers have dragged their feet to embrace technology, feature plus-size models, and champion diversity of race and gender, McCharen has pounced, springing leaps and bounds ahead of some of her contemporaries.

Steff Yotka here

Seriously though–McCharen’s designs are very swimwear and lingerie-based. Unlike,say, the Victoria’s Secret fashion show, McCharen has no problem whatsoever showing diverse women in skimpy designs. There are models of all skin tones, sizes, and perceived abilities.

Also, let’s be honest–these designs are good. They’re bright, modern, sexy, and the diverse cast just sweetens the deal.

Above: I love these thigh-highs–bright toe and thigh area, then the rest is just sheer. Such a fun detail.

Above: The sporty design mixed with the bustier details and satin is so fresh

Above and below: So many designers tried to bring back satin bias cut-dresses, and I for one find this returning trend premature. The Chromat take on satin dresses, however, is head-turning and noteworthy.

Below: I really hope someone wears this look the Met Gala this year given the theme is “fashion in the age of technology”.

All images from Vogue Runway here.

#SLAY Vivienne Westwood Red Label Fall 2016

This model…this pink dress…just totally…can’tevensoperfectomgomgomg.

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Above: Vivienne Westwood Red Label Fall 2016

#SLAY #SLAY #SLAY #SLAY #SLAY

NYFW Fall 2016 Catwalk Diversity Spotlight: Sophie Theallet

Runway diversity for fashion week–any year, any city, any season–is a notorious problem in the fashion industry. Thin, white models reign supreme, with little signs of change. The Fall 2016 collections, however, have had a few head-turning collections where diverse casting was clearly taken into careful consideration. Well done and three cheers for these New York-based designers!

SOPHIE THEALLET

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Omg this show was like a dream come true—a very racially diverse cast of models, ‘plus’ size models…very, very exciting. There were models with natural hair, all skin tones, and you definitely couldn’t consider any of these models’ presence on the runway to be token. Sophie Theallet, you’re officially a Closet Feminist dream girl now.

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Above and below: Love these Brontë heroine-worthy looks

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Also a total bonus–Theallet opened and closed her show with a woman of colour!

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All images from Vogue Runway here.

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Fashion’s Best Feminist Ally: Zac Posen

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Above: Zac Posen accompanies Naomi Campell, who closed his Fall RTW 2015 show.

If ever fashion’s feminists had an ally, it would definitely be Zac Posen.

Why, might you ask, does this particular designer deserve this title?

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Above: Zac Posen Fall 2015

Posen’s runway shows and lookbooks consistently feature more models of colour than his other New York design peers.

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Above: Zac Posen Spring 2015

He very frequently collaborates, works with, and otherwise supports of Canadian model and activist Coco Rocha, whose own work is no doubt feminist. Typically speaking, if you run with feminists, you’re a feminist yourself.

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Above: Zac Posen Fall 2015

Posen sought to make queer-friendly and tomboy looks accessible to the mainstream with his 2010 Target collaboration. This is a pretty notable action from a major designer, especially considering fashion has a bad habit of turning a blind eye to folks who prefer more butch and androgynous outfits.

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Above: Zac Posen Pre-Fall 2015

Posen is further known for embracing ‘plus’ size design, even tackling the tricky world of wedding dresses.

We’re not the only ones noting Posen’s efforts–Refinery29 has named him the Patron Saint of Model Diversity, and the fashion activist Bethann Hardison has applauded his efforts for years.

ZacPosen_Spring2015_01Above: Zac Posen Spring 2015

Here at The Closet Feminist, we highlight female designers as much as possible, and definitely consider Posen’s work a beautiful commitment to women as well. Three cheers for fashion’s most valuable ally!

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Above: Zac Posen Spring 2015

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