Racism & The Runway, Part 1: Bethann Hardison’s List of Racist Designers

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Above: A few looks from The Row Fall 2013 collection. Image found here.

On Friday (September 6th) news broke that Bethann Hardison, a former model agency owner and documentarian who campaigns for greater diversity on the runway has done some seriously amazing activism: she sent a series of letters to the CFDA, British Fashion Council, the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana in Milan and the Fédération Française de la Couture du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers and Créateurs de Mode in Paris explicitly listing all the designers and couture houses that have used very few, if any, black models for their runway shows.

Read more about Hardison’s campaign in “Call to End Racism on the Runway”on Fashionista.com here.

According to reports, Hardison’s claims are based on an intensive month-long project wherein she and a volunteer sifted through thousands and thousands of images of every single model sent sashaying down the runway during the Fall 2013 fashion season, determining that precious few were women of colour, most specifically black women.

Read Robin Ghivan’s take on Hardison’s campaign in “Confronting the Lack of Black Models on the Runway”, available on The Cut here.

While reports are numerous, there are a few things which we aim to address in a four-part series over the next few days. First, for quick reference, we are copy and pasting all of the designers Hardison found guilty below. Please give credit where credit is due: this list was composed by the hard work and efforts of Bethann Hardison, you can see the original letters here, and the list of designers accused organized by city (New York, Paris, Milan, and London). Here’s the quick version: nearly every single designer that has ever dressed a celebrity for an awards ceremony, had a dress on the cover of Vogue, had clothes in any page of any major fashion magazine–is on this list.

BFC Responds to Racism Claims on Vogue.com

Fashion Designers Accused of Racism in Letter on The Huffington Post

Members of International Fashion Weeks Receive Letters Alleging Racism on Refinery29

LIST OF DESIGNERS ACCUSED OF RACISM COMPOSED BY BETHANN HARDISON

NEW YORK, WOMEN

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Above: A look from the Fall 2013 Marc Jacobs collection. Image found here.

A Détacher
Alexandre Herchcovitch
Alexander Wang
Altazurra
Anna Sui
BCBG MAX AZRIA
Belstaff
Calvin Klein Collection
Christian Siriano
Derek Lam
Diesel Black Gold
Donna Karan
Giulietta
Honor
ICB
J. Mendel
Jenny Packham
Jeremy Laing
Jill Stuart
Karen Walker
Katie Gallagher
Kaufmanfranco
Kimberly Ovitz
Louise Goldin
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Milly NY by Michelle Smith
MM6 Maison Martin Margiela
Monique Lhuillier
Narciso Rodriguez
Oscar De la Renta
Pamella Roland
Peter Som
Philosophy
Prabal Gurung
Proenza Schouler
Rachel Zoe
Rag & Bone
Rebecca Minkoff
Rebecca Taylor
Reed Krakoff
Rodarte
Ruffian
Sachin + Babi
Sally LaPointe
The Row
Tibi
Vera Wang
Victoria Beckham
Victoria, Victoria Beckham
Vivienne Tam

NEW YORK, MEN

Duckie Brown
N. Hollywood
Patrik Ervell
Perry Ellis by Duckie Brown
Robert Geller
Siki Im
Tim Coppens

LONDON, WOMEN

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Above: A look from the Mulberry Fall 2013 collection. Image found here.

Antonio Berardi
Christopher Raeburn
Clements Ribeiro
Daks
David Koma
Emilia Wickstead
Emilio De La Morena
Holly Fulton
House of Holland
Jean-Pierre Braganza
John Rocha
Julien MacDonald
JW Anderson
Kinder Aggugini
Maria Grachvogel
Mario Schwab
Mary Katrantzou
Michael Van Der Ham
Moschino Cheap & Chic
Mulberry
Osman
Paul Smith
Peter Pilotto
PREEN By Thornton
Sass & Bide
Bregazzi
Temperley London
Todd Lynn

LONDON, MEN

Alexander McQueen
Christopher Shannon
E. Tavtz
Hardy Amies
JW. Anderson
James Long
Lou Dalton

MILAN, WOMEN

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Above: A look from the Prada Fall 2013 collection. Image found here.

Alberta Ferretti
Antonio Marra
Aquilano Rimondi
Blumarine
Emporio Armani
Etro
Francesco Scognamiglio
Gabriele Colangelo
Genny
Giorgio Armani
Gian Franco Ferre
Gucci
Iceberg
Jil Sander
Just Cavalli
Luisa Beccaria
Marco de Vincenzo
Moschino
Marni
N°21
Prada
Philipp Plein
Roberto Cavalli
Salvatore Ferragamo
Sportmax
Ter et Bantine
Trussardi
Versace

MILAN, MEN

Bottega Veneta
Burberry Prorsum
Belstaff
Canali
Costume National
Diesel Black Gold
Ermenegildo Zegna
Etro
Fendi
Iceburg
Jil Sander
John Varvatos
Les Hommes
Moschino
Prada
Salvatore Ferragamo
Trussardi

PARIS, WOMEN

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Above: A look from the Chanel Fall 2013 collection. Image found here.

A.F. Vandevorst
Alexis Mabille
Ann Demeulemeester
Acne Studios
Alexander McQueen
Andrew Gn
Balenciaga
Barbara Bui
Carven
Céline
Chanel
Christian Dior
Collette Dinnigan
Costume National
Cedric Charlier
Chloé
Comme des Garçons
Christian Wijnants
Dries van Noten
Damir Doma
Elie Saab
Felipe Oliveira Baptista
Gareth Pugh
Haider Ackermann
Hermès
Isabel Marant
Jay Ahr
Jean-Charles de Castelbajac
Julien David
Junya Watanabe
Lanvin
Louis Vuitton
Maison Martin Margiela
Maison Rabih Kayrouz
Manish Arora
Maxime Simoëns
Moncler Gamme Rouge
Mugler
Nicolas Andreas
Taralis
Nina Ricci
Paco Rabonne
Paul & Joe
Rochas
Roland Mouret
Rue du Mail
Sacai
Saint Laurent
Sharon Wauchob
Tsumori Chisato
Undercover
Valentin Yudashkin
Valentino
Vanessa Bruno
Veronique Branquinho
Veronique Leroy
Viktor & Rolf
Vionnet
Yang Li
Yohji Yamamoto
Zadig & Voltaire

PARIS, MEN

Ann Demeulemeester
Balenciaga
Carven
Comme des Garçons
Damir Doma
Dries Van Noten
Dior Homme
Hermes
Junya Watanabe
John Galliano
Kolor
Kris Van Assche
Lanvin
Louis Vuitton
Maison Martin Margiela
Raf Simons
Rick Owens
Saint Laurent
Valentino
Viktor & Rolf
Yohji Yamamoto
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