Covers & Content Annual Review 2016, Part 2: FASHION

The 2016 publishing year is over for our three favourite Canadian fashion magazines, so it’s time to look back on every issue printed this year by Elle Canada, Fashion, and Flare, to see how diverse they were overall compared to last year. Up next is FASHION!

For a review of the Covers & Content project, please check out the FAQ page here.

Closet Feminist Terminology

Whiteout Issue: an issue of a fashion magazine where neither the cover star nor models booked/used for any of the major editorials are people of colour.

Token Diversity Spread: When a fashion magazine books/uses an ensemble of models, including some models of colour or models representing other minorities in the fashion world (i.e., plus size models or visibly older models), but are careful not to allow the minorities chosen to make up the majority of the spread or the majority of models chosen.

Has FASHION improved at all over the years? Check out our data from the last three years.

FASHION 2013 Annual Review

FASHION 2014 Annual Review

FASHION 2015 Annual Review

Did you miss Part 1 of our 2016 review focused on Elle Canada? Check it out here.

***

FASHION is such an odd magazine. It is by far and away the most popular Canadian fashion magazine, arguably featuring the more “aspirational” aspects of a traditional fashion magazine. As such, the content is usually quite dry and conservative. The reporting is a snooze, with the exception of the cover stories which are done by Elio Iannacci (whose feminist reporting and engaging interviews are a CF favourite).

This year, FASHION remained somewhat of an enigma. On the one hand, FASHION came out on top with the most issues featuring a woman of colour on the cover. On the other hand, it tied with Elle Canada for the most Whiteout Issues, which indicates the issues were either super awesome and diverse, or bizarrely whitewashed.

FASHION also stands out in 2016 for publishing two issues featuring an Asian woman on the cover (Soo Joo Park and Michelle Phan)–neither Elle Canada nor Flare managed to publish even one issue with an Asian woman on the cover, though they did publish issues with mixed race women.

That being said, FASHION is also unique in that it is the only Canadian fashion magazine this year that did not have a black woman on the cover solo. Elle Canada had Beyoncé, and Flare had Herieth Paul exclusively. Normani Kordei shared a cover with the rest of Fifth Harmony in the Summer issue of FASHION.

And now for the month-by-month breakdown!

JANUARY

FASHION does Winter issues, covering December/January. As such, the January issue of 2016 features the same data as their December 2015 issue. Chiara Ferragni was on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial in the December 2015/January 2016 issue of FASHION, and it starred one thin, white model. The editorial featured a racist collection, rather adding insult to injury considering this issue of FASHION was a Whiteout Issue.

FEBRUARY

Above: Natalie Dormer in the Feb 2016 issue of FASHION

The February issue was also a Whiteout Issue, starring Natalie Dormer on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial in this issue starring one thin, white model.

MARCH

For a third month in a row, FASHION produced a Whiteout Issue. Olivia Palermo was on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial in this issue starring one thin, white model.

APRIL

Finally, FASHION showed a little bit of diversity on their pages with Soo Joo Park on the cover (image from the shoot below).

There was one fashion editorial in this issue starring one thin, white model.

MAY

Olivia Munn was on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial in this issue starring one thin, white model.

JUNE/JULY

Fifth Harmony was on the cover of the Summer issue (covering June and July 2016), comprised of Dinah Jane Hansen, Ally Brooke Hernandez, Normani Kordei, Camila Cabello, and Lauren Jauregui.

There was one fashion editorial this month, starring one thin, white model.

AUGUST

Michelle Phan was on the cover.

Above: from the August 2016 issue of FASHION

There was one fashion editorial in this issue starring one thin, mixed-race model.

SEPTEMBER 

Karlie Kloss was the cover star of a boring Joe Fresh advertorial.

There are two fashion editorials in this issue. The first stars one thin, white model. The second stars Canadian mixed-race model Mackenzie Hamilton.

OCTOBER

Kate Bosworth was on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial this month, starring one thin, white model. This means that the October issue of FASHION was a Whiteout Issue.

NOVEMBER

Tatiana Maslany was on the cover.

Above: from FASHION November 2016

There were two fashion editorials in this issue. One starred one thin, white model. The second starred one thin model of colour.

DECEMBER

Above: from the FASHION Winter 2016 cover story

The December (and the January 2017 issue of FASHION) issue starred Hailee Steinfeld on the cover.

There were  two fashion editorials in this issue. One starred a thin, white model, and the second one starred one thin Latina/mixed race model.

Covers & Content Annual Review 2015, Part 2: FASHION

2015 is over and done with, so it’s time to look back on every issue printed this year by Canada’s three top fashion magazines: Elle Canada, Fashion, and Flare, to see how diverse they were overall compared to last year. Up next is FASHION!

Miss Part 1 of our annual review focusing on Elle Canada? Check it out here.

For a review of the Covers & Content project by The Closet Feminist, please check out the FAQ page here.

Closet Feminist Terminology

Whiteout Issue: an issue of a fashion magazine where neither the cover star nor models booked/used for any of the major editorials are people of colour.

Token Diversity Spread: When a fashion magazine books/uses an ensemble of models, including some models of colour or models representing other minorities in the fashion world (i.e., plus size models or visibly older models), but are careful not to allow the minorities chosen to make up the majority of the spread or the majority of models chosen

***

While Elle Canada may have had only one issue starring a woman of colour in 2015, they did better than FASHION in 2015, which offered zero issues with a cover star of colour–booooo!

Covers&Content_TABLE_Fashion_2015_v1

FASHION made one minor improvement though–in 2014 they had eight Whiteout Issues, but in 2015 ‘only’ seven Whiteout Issues.

Another win for FASHION was the diversity of the models they booked in 2015–they had four issues featuring models of colour (better than Elle Canada, which only had two issues featuring models of colour!)

IMG_3254

Now here’s the month-by-month breakdown:

JANUARY

As this “Winter” issue comprises both the December 2014 issue and January 2015 issue, it means that FASHION started 2015 with a Whiteout Issue. Evangeline Lilly was on the cover, and there is one editorial starring one thin, white model.

FEBRUARY

FASHION_Feb2015_Strong&Free_Editorial

Above: from the February 2015 editorial “Strong & Free” in FASHION.

Anna Kendrick was on the cover.

There were two fashion editorials in the Feb issue of FASHION. The first was awesome and starred a diverse cast of models (above). The second was status quo starring one thin, white model.

MARCH

Gwen Stefani was on the cover.

There were two fashion editorials in the March issue of FASHION, and both starred thin, white models. That means this issue was a Whiteout Issue.

APRIL

Elisha Cuthbert was on the cover.

FASHION_April2015_NIghtVision_Editorial

Above: From the “Night Vision” editorial in FASHION April 2015.

There were two editorials in this issue–and both starred thin, black models! It is incredibly rare for a fashion magazine to have multiple fashion editorials for which they book models of colour exclusively. In fact, FASHION was the only Canadian fashion magazine of the three discussed in this review to do this in 2015!

MAY

Elizabeth Olsen was on the cover.

There were two fashion editorials in the May issue of FASHION, and both starred thin, white models. That means this issue was a Whiteout Issue.

JUNE/JULY

Ashley Benson was on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial in the Summer (June/July) issue of FASHION. It starred one thin, white model, meaning this issue was a Whiteout Issue.

AUGUST

Gal Gadot was on the cover.

There were two fashion editorials in the August issue of FASHION, and both starred thin, white models. That means this issue was a Whiteout Issue.

SEPTEMBER

FASHION_September2015_TeamSpiritEditorial2Image above: from the “Team Spirit” editorial in FASHION September 2015

Taylor Hill and Elsa Hosk were on the cover.

There were two fashion editorials this month if you could the Hill/Hosk cover story. The cover story was typical, but the second editorial was AWESOME, and starred two Asian models in androgynous, gender-bending clothing.

OCTOBER

Sarah Gadon was on the cover.

There were two fashion editorials in the October issue of FASHION, and both starred thin, white models. That means this issue was a Whiteout Issue.

NOVEMBER

Alana Zimmer was on the cover.

If you count Zimmer’s cover story, there were two fashion editorials this month. The second starred one thin, black model.

DECEMBER

Chiara Ferragni was on the cover.

There was one fashion editorial in the December 2015/January 2016 issue of FASHION, and it starred one thin, white model. The editorial featured a racist collection, rather adding insult to injury considering this issue of FASHION was a Whiteout Issue.

 

Covers & Content: December 2015

Read on to find out how the diversity of Canada’s top three fashion magazines stacked up this month.

ElleCanada_December2015_Cover_KylieJenner

The Magazine: Elle Canada

The Cover Star: Kylie Jenner

Perceived Appearance of Cover Star: Mixed race/white

Does the magazine appear to feature any models of colour in the editorials?: There were two fashion editorials in the Dec. issue of Elle Canada, and both starred thin, white models.

Does the magazine appear to feature any plus-size models in the editorials?: No

Zendaya_Flare_Dec2015

The Magazine: Flare

The Cover Star: Zendaya

Perceived Appearance of Cover Star: Black/mixed race

Does the magazine appear to feature any models of colour in the editorials?: There was one fashion editorial in the December 2015 issue of Flare. It starred one, thin white model. If you count the Chanel-exclusive advertorial also in this issue, then there were two editorials, the second starred one thin, Asian model.

Does the magazine appear to feature any plus-size models in the editorials?: No

chiara-ferragni-winter-2016-cover-800x1092

The Magazine: FASHION

The Cover Star: Chiara Ferragni

Perceived Appearance of Cover Star: White

Does the magazine appear to feature any models of colour in the editorials?: There was one fashion editorial this month and it starred on thin, white model, making this issue of FASHION a Whiteout Issue

Does the magazine appear to feature any plus-size models in the editorials?: No

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